Saturday, October 17, 2020

Eastern Red Hills in the Fall

     Some of the best scenery in the Red Hills is in the eastern edge of the region. Of course, this is known as the Gypsum Hills in these parts. Most of these fall photos are in this beautiful region, excepting the lone bison enjoying some of the lush grass on the Zbar Ranch in southwest Barber County.


Old Round Top, an iconic feature in the eastern escarpment of 
the Gyp Hills southwest of Medicine Lodge, Barber County.


On west of Medicine Lodge, many mounds, buttes and canyons
supply beautiful eye candy.


Little Bluestem adds to the red and orange hues
in the fall landscape.



Looking eastwardly to some of the east edge of 
the Gyp Hills.

A wider view of the eastern escarpment.

Beautiful rolling hills along the 
eastern part of the Gyp Hills Scenic Drive.


Leave me alone!

 

Tuesday, August 11, 2020

Red Hills Roads Less Traveled

   "Two roads diverged in a yellow wood..."  And you probably know the rest of this Robert Frost classic. Well, the Red Hills offers many roads seldom traveled. Here is a sampling of some of these routes. While they are mostly public roads, they all pass through private properties of ranchers who take great pride in their livelihood and their country way of life. While most of the sand and gravel byways become challenging in very wet weather, for most of the year they are quite accessible. A slow journey on one of these trails will fill your senses with amazing sights, sounds, smells and views. I'm sure if Robert Frost had visited the Red Hills, his famous poem would have been prairie-oriented and much more interesting. 

The serene valley of the Salt Fork of the Arkansas River valley on Aetna Road
is carpeted with morning fog.
A side trip into the Cave Creek area (by permission of landowner) 
reveals some beautiful gypsum outcrops.
Flower Pot Mountain (yes it's called that on the official Kansas Gazetteer), while not
an actual mountain peak, is the iconic landmark of the Red Hills.
The author takes a break from a peaceful Lake City Road trip.
The Gypsum Hills Scenic Byway west of Medicine Lodge in colder times.
The Gyp Hills Scenic Drive southwest of Medicine Lodge is one
of the most beautiful trips in Kansas. It's a side loop off of the official
Gyp Hills Scenic Byway on U.S. 160 towards Coldwater and begins about 
three miles west of Medicine Lodge.
These roadside observers on Cottage Creek Road in southwest Barber County 
seem unimpressed by human visitors.
Iron infused soil of the Red Hills provides the name-sake color of this region.
The beauty of the Red Hills in Clark County west of Ashland is 
easily observed from U.S. 160.
A backroad trip on Bitter Creek Road, Barber County.
While a county-maintained road, it's best to not try it after heavy rain.
Another view just off of Bitter Creek Road.
A side trip on blacktop to Clark State Fishing Lake results in
lasting memories of a beautiful water feature of the Red Hills.
From the east-side blacktop to the western side of Clark
State Fishing Lake the road changes to a gravel/sand base but worth the effort!
A broad vista of beautiful Red Hills rangeland looking north from Hackberry Road
along the Oklahoma border in Barber County.
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     There are so many back roads less traveled in the Red Hills to make any adventurer happy and delighted to have experienced this amazing place in the Kansas Outback. And in the final stanza of that famous poem, "... I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference!"

Friday, May 22, 2020

Red Hills Roadside Wildflowers

     Want to get out of the house and take an amazing road trip? The Gyp (Red) Hills area of Barber County is a fascinating choice. And now is the time to see an amazing wildflower display. With good spring rains, the grasslands are ablaze with color. And you don't have to explore beyond the road to see it. It's right outside the car window. Here are some examples of what you can see.
This amazingly dense stand of Purple Poppy Mallow
paints this part of the Red Hills a wine color.

Prairie Groundsel formerly known as
Prairie Ragwort

Catclaw Sensitive Briar

Missouri Locoweed


Lemon Paintbrush

Hartweg (Fendler) Evening Primrose (very similar to Missouri Evening Primrose)
Hartweg's is probably more common in the Red Hills. And, as the name
implies, it opens late in the day.

Purple Ground Cherry in the foreground mixed in with
Scarlet Globe Mallow. Spider Antelopehorn Milkweed is in the background.

Scarlet Globe Mallow, one of the few
orange-colored flowers in these hills.

Cobaea Penstamon (Beardtongue) is one of the showiest
flowers of the Red Hills and in Kansas.
Indian Blanket Flower 
A favorite local name is Cowboy Daisy.

Yucca is one of the most evident and iconic plants of the prairie, especially in bloom.
You don't have to be on a pasture road to see this very recognizable plant.





A most spectacular display along Sand Creek Road in Barber County. Included are the tall Rayless Gaillardia in the foreground and flowering Yucca in the background. While
without conspicuous petals, this Gaillardia has the most amazing scent. If you find some,
be sure and smell them! The lower growing plants are Stiff-stem Flax (yellow) and
Norton's Flax (blue).

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     Take a day and go the Red Hills as well as many other wild areas of Kansas. Take it slow and enjoy nature at its best. There are many resources for helping with identification of these plants but a great on-line resource is "Kansas Wildflowers and Grasses" developed and maintained by Mike Haddock. https://www.kswildflower.org/index.php If interested in specific flora of the Red Hills, look for the field guide below. It can be obtained through the Great Plains Nature Center in Wichita or the Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks and Tourism. Another great organization and source of information is the Kansas Native Plant Society.  https://www.kansasnativeplantsociety.org/




 


Thursday, April 23, 2020

Do You Hear It?


     This post will include a bit more than typical for the Kansas Outback. But as implied by the title, have you noticed how generally less noisy it is? 
     While incredibly inconvenient for a number of sound reasons, our current sheltering situation is offering a rather unique chance to experience the past.  It was a quieter time when life was slower without the annoyances of high traffic or unsightly contrails crisscrossing an otherwise beautiful sky. Besides my childhood, the last time I recall this kind of comforting silence was right after 9-11 when all air traffic was curtailed. However, this time vehicle traffic is greatly reduced as well. While I empathize with so many folks in worse straights than myself, I can't help but enjoy the amazing sound of silence as well as the absolutely clear, blue skies. While we are dealt this hand to minimize social contacts and traveling, try to find your own quiet spot. Be aware of what's not there. Think about how better quality of life we all could have if we can manage to retain some of this quieter existence in our society. There are reports of  cleaner air as well as more visible wildlife because of less human activity. So, while you are isolating but perhaps able to walk to a nearest park or spend some time in your backyard, see if you notice the difference. I wrote the piece at the end quite a few years ago for a short article in the state wildlife agency's magazine. It seemed fitting for current considerations. On your way to it, enjoy some peaceful, quiet settings in the Red Hills.








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QUIET!!

Shhhhhh. Wherever you are right now, stop and listen. What do you hear?  Odds are you are hearing something. In your outdoor adventures, can you recall a setting absolutely devoid of sound? Perhaps in a tree stand in the crisp quiet before dawn where the waning darkened silence was interrupted only by the rustling of some rodent beneath your perch? Beyond that, have you ever experienced utter silence, an instance where you hear zero sounds of man or nature? Like most humans, you most likely cannot recall such an occurrence unless, of course, you don’t have or have lost hearing. There's only a handful of times I can recall experiencing profound silence--reflective moments on a mountain peak, solitude in the Sonoran Desert, quiet anxiety in a tree stand, or black nothingness in a cave. Even so, these times were fleeting. The rush of a valley breeze, the call of a Gila Woodpecker, a rustling deer mouse, and even an intermittent water drip in a small bat cavern have all interrupted absolute silence.    
But for the person seeking natural experiences, the artificial sounds from human activities are the most annoying. To most people, these auditory irritations are so pervasive we hardly notice them. Even for folks who live in the country, there’s the incessant traffic noise from the highway a couple miles away, the annoying oil jack engine from upwind, the blaring train horn from many miles away, or loud barking of dogs disturbing sleep. Peace and quiet are disappearing from our natural landscape. It’s unfortunate that many people who have moved to the suburbs or the edge of town to achieve peace and quiet still do not fully experience that fulfillment. But, it’s an important aspect of our inherent need for outdoor experiences. In our relentless march towards more highways, more industrial plants, more sub-developments, more of everything, we are losing a precious biological and spiritual human need—silence. For fear that such a natural life treasure is steadily disappearing without notice, I point it out. As Richard Louv so eloquently portrays in his book, Last Child in the Woods:  “I hope all of you find this silence if you haven’t found it already. It is well worth pursuing. This silence is generated by the absence of any noise, care or preoccupation around your cell phones, iPods, TV, Radio, Walkmans, lap tops, noisy neighbors, the drone of traffic, barking dogs, and whatever else. This silence is brought to you by nature as a gift. Find your gift.”                             Article in Kansas Wildlife and Parks Magazine, Ken Brunson, 2009
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"Don't it always seem to go
That you don't know what you've got til its gone..." 

Joni Mitchell


Monday, April 13, 2020

Bison Tales

     Bison bison is the scientific name. "Buffalo" is the most common reference to our country's largest ungulate. It is only distantly related to the true buffaloes of Asia and Africa. The North American Bison is composed of two subspecies, the plains bison and the wood bison. There are three publicly-owned herds in Kansas managed by the  Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks and Tourism--Maxwell Wildlife Preserve in McPherson County, Big Basin Prairie Preserve in Clark County, and the Sandsage Bison Range and Wildlife Area near Garden City in Finney County.  There are a number of bison herds on private ranches across Kansas. Also, The Nature Conservancy in Kansas manages two herds, one at Smoky Valley Ranch in Logan County and one at the Tallgrass Prairie National Park in Chase County. A third herd managed by Kansas State University resides on Konza Prairie, another TNC owned property, in Riley County. This photo-essay depicts scenes from privately-owned bison of the Red Hills in Barber County.




This was a peach of a morning sunrise in company of photogenic big mammals.

A frosty bison

Spirits of the plains

You can't roller skate in a buffalo herd--Roger Miller

Sunshine on my shoulder makes me happy--John Denver


I'm being followed by a moon shadow--Cat Stevens

Tatonka--Dances With Wolves

Tuesday, March 3, 2020

Spring Spectacle

     Spring always seems to be officially announced by the fantastic migration of Sandhill Cranes over the heartland. While there's always a smaller flock of a few thousand which winter in the southern Red Hills, many thousands more join them in early March as they migrate from Texas, New Mexico and northern Mexico to nesting grounds as far north as the tundra of Canada. While there are six sub-species now identified for Antigone canadensis, the Lesser Sandhill Crane is in the largest numbers and the ones gracing our skies right now. This mid-continent population numbers around a half million strong, concentrating by mid-March on the middle Platte River in central Nebraska. I try to impart my own appreciation for this special spring treat as follows.
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Drifting along such lofty heights, winding to roost at evening light,
thousands flying in such straggly lines, with the south wind pushing from behind.
Like ancient aerial dinosaurs glimmering in the sky,
presenting challenges finding them so high.





Then slowly setting giant wings, stabilizing such enormous things,
formations gracefully floating in joining thousands of other Sandhill              Cranes.
Their chuckling calls reminds us all of ancient eons past,
for millions of years with similar birds following same migration paths.




Springtime always brings rebirth with optimistic dreams
from the lusty songs of feathered friends and emerging leafy greens.
But nothing fills the soul much more or matches nature’s cheer
then to be greeted with this spectacle in early March each year.



Wednesday, February 12, 2020

Another Snow Show in the Red Hills

Drifting from a sullen sky come fluffy crystals soft and light
on enchanted land of Permian red accented by showy gypsum beds.
They flutter down so quietly adding to the scenery
sporting a blanket of pure white snow on thirsty fields of grassy gold.

The ample moisture is a pleasing sight and to Red Hills ranchers pure delight,
a welcomed winter present yielding later great forage benefits.
As spring returns and takes a drink from water laden soils below
the landscape will respond with green and display a quite colorful show.

We relish this beautiful, natural present as we watch it fall in such calming essence
reminding us of nature’s glory sometimes coming as raucous story.
But today it arrives with comforting grace floating down in frozen state
and feeds the streams of this hilly land as well as soul of beasts and humans.