Tuesday, December 8, 2020

Caves--second in a series of the 8 Natural Wonders of the Red Hills (Reposted)

       Over half of the estimated 700 or so caves in Kansas occur in the Red Hills. Ranging from openings big enough to drive a truck through to crevices so tight it would make an earthworm claustrophobic, they harbor adventures and fascinations beyond belief. The many caves of the Red Hills occur in that portion of primarily Barber and Comanche counties where the Blaine Formation of gypsum is exposed. Water dissolves this mineral which is made up of calcium sulfate in various forms. Besides the amazing bats and other animals which make these holes their home, there are beautiful crystalline ceilings and walls in some of the caves. The Kansas Speleological Society has mapped many of these caves and is a dedicated group of spelunkers who take pride in not only enjoying these treasures but taking great measures to protect them and their wildlife. 

     All of these caverns and crevices are on private ground. They are not readily accessible to the public and this is probably a key reason they have not been significantly impacted in bad ways. However, increased energy and mining development in this portion of the Red Hills could definitely affect them. These are fragile and unique ecosystems for Kansas and deserve our collective conservation attention. They also deserve recognition as one of the 8 Natural Wonders of the Red Hills. 

Paxon admires the sun shining through an opening and onto a reflecting pool in
 Triple Arches Cave.



       No one knows more about the cave bats of the Red Hills than Stan Roth, retired instructor from Lawrence. Stan spent over four decades taking students to caves in the Red Hills and studying all the interesting features in this Kansas Outback! Stan still devotes time and trips to the Red Hills, and continues to educate more students of all ages. Here, Stan enjoys a maternity colony of Cave Myotis bats in Gentry Cave.

Adaira wiggles her way through Double Entrance S Cave.
  

Lance Hedges was an incredible friend and colleague. Here, he spends some quality time in Havard Cave along with local rancher, Nate Harts, who is checking out the Registry.  Registries, where cavers record their names and visit dates, are maintained in a number of Red Hills caves by the Kansas Speleological Society.
The author sits next to the head of a distiller tank once used to make "spirits" in Still Cave.   Intriguing stories such as this abound in this land of enchantment and mystique. 

Townsend's Big-eared Bats hang out in many of the caves of the Red Hills.

A classic scene in the Red Hills is where gypsum outcrops are seen. This is known locally as the "Gypsum Hills," because, well, that's where we are able to observe the gypsum.

Friday, December 4, 2020

Snow Day in the Red Hills

Honoring a recent snow in the Red Hills 
***
When magic flutters from the sky
to fascinate this traveler's eyes
it finds final resting places
upon red soil on which it graces.
Amidst the hills and valleys there
are natural secrets to none compare
quite dormant at this time of year
appreciative of  this cold nectar.  
For when springtime comes around
the moisture gained within this ground
will feed desires of thirsty plants
when brown turns green upon this land.
As aquifers become restored
to release their stores to streams once more
their flows present the lifeblood then
sustaining all this life again.
The enchantment of this frozen place
shown in this part of the state
accented by such icy events
with such fine gift of heaven sent.
Clouds remain to praise their gift
and sun breaks through with rays to lift
spirits of the people there
whose ranches receive such loving care.
Winter snows are not that rare
but when storms come we give a cheer
for dependent wildlife living here
for the turkeys and white-tailed deer.
The beauty of this grand landscape
extends beyond these coldest days
and with this blanket of silver white
feeds the soul with such delight.

 

Monday, November 23, 2020

8 Natural Wonders of the Red Hills--Big Basin Prairie Preserve and St. Jacob's Well (Reposted)

 

Photo by Jim Mason
     With this post I launch my selections of the 8 Natural Wonders of the Red Hills of Kansas. Perhaps you've heard of the 8 Wonders of Kansas at https://kansassampler.org/8wondersofkansas/  .
Any self-respecting Kansan should be aware of and have been to this wonderful site developed by the Kansas Sampler Foundation and a whole bunch of fine folks and led by Marci Penner. There are other 8 wonder sub-categories including such subjects as Architecture, Art, Cuisine, History and others. I'm expanding on this theme by presenting my own selections for the special place in Kansas I call the Kansas Outback. The Red Hills represents the proverbial counter to the claim of a flat Kansas. While all of Kansas offers so many interesting features in so many categories, the Red Hills is a particular land of enchantment and treasure trove of natural surprises. In this and subsequent posts, I present my selections of the best 8 Natural Wonders of the Red Hills in no particular order of rank.  First to be highlighted is Big Basin Preserve and St. Jacob's Well in western Clark County.
     St. Jacob's Well is a sink hole in a particular area of the Little Basin which is, itself, part of a larger land form called the Big Basin.  The vista from the parking lot at the well exhibits the beautiful prairie landscape.  A description is provided by the Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks, and Tourism website:

     The Big Basin Prairie Preserve is 1,818 acres of native mixed grass prairie managed by the Kansas Department of Wildlife and Parks. This area is in the Red Hills region of Kansas. The landscape can generally be described as rolling hills with both level uplands and small canyons. The preserve also includes an intermittent stream , Keiger Creek, which flows through the northeast corner of the preserve, and two non-draining basins that make the preserve topographically and geologically unique.
Big Basin:
     Big Basin is a large circular depression. It is about one mile in diameter and about 100 feet deep. The walls of the basin are nearly vertical. Scattered across the floor of Big Basin are a number of small ephemeral ponds that catch and temporarily hold the water that flows into the basin. U.S. Highway 283 bisects Big Basin, with approximately two-thirds of the basin lying east of the road and within the confines of the preserve. The remaining western third of the basin is privately owned.
Little Basin:
     The Little Basin is about 280 yards in diameter and 35 feet from rim to floor. Within Little Basin is a small permanent pond known as St. Jacob’s Well. St. Jacob’s Well is a pool of water about 84 feet in diameter that has never been known to go dry. The well has been the subject of many local legends, most associated with the idea that the well was bottomless and/or connected to an underground stream that was capable of washing away anything that fell in the well. The well was also reportedly inhabited by blind fish. Research has shown the well to be roughly funnel shaped and 58 feet deep. No evidence of any underground stream or blind fish has been found.
     Big Basin, Little Basin, and St. Jacob’s Well were formed in the recent geological past by a process known as solution-subsidence. This process occurs when surface water gains access and dissolves underground deposits of salt, gypsum, or limestone. The overlaying layers of rock and minerals subside to fill the volume vacated by the water soluble deposits. The process of solution - subsidence is thought to still be occurring, and small depressions have been noted forming within Little Basin.
A panoramic of the water hole in the ground known as St. Jacob's Well.
A close-up of the "bottomless" well stimulates an imagination of travel-wary and thirsty pioneers and cattle drivers gleefully diving into this refreshing water and savoring buckets of life-sustaining liquid for the next few days or weeks of hot, dusty prairie travel.
Wonderful flora and fauna greet visitors to Big Basin and St. Jacob's Well. 


A small herd of Bison are kept in the Big Basin and can often be seen on the drive back to St. Jacob's Well.

      More information can be found about this unique area at the Natural Kansas website:  http://www.naturalkansas.org/bigbasin.htm .  




Saturday, October 17, 2020

Eastern Red Hills in the Fall

     Some of the best scenery in the Red Hills is in the eastern edge of the region. Of course, this is known as the Gypsum Hills in these parts. Most of these fall photos are in this beautiful region, excepting the lone bison enjoying some of the lush grass on the Zbar Ranch in southwest Barber County.


Old Round Top, an iconic feature in the eastern escarpment of 
the Gyp Hills southwest of Medicine Lodge, Barber County.


On west of Medicine Lodge, many mounds, buttes and canyons
supply beautiful eye candy.


Little Bluestem adds to the red and orange hues
in the fall landscape.



Looking eastwardly to some of the east edge of 
the Gyp Hills.

A wider view of the eastern escarpment.

Beautiful rolling hills along the 
eastern part of the Gyp Hills Scenic Drive.


Leave me alone!

 

Tuesday, August 11, 2020

Red Hills Roads Less Traveled

   "Two roads diverged in a yellow wood..."  And you probably know the rest of this Robert Frost classic. Well, the Red Hills offers many roads seldom traveled. Here is a sampling of some of these routes. While they are mostly public roads, they all pass through private properties of ranchers who take great pride in their livelihood and their country way of life. While most of the sand and gravel byways become challenging in very wet weather, for most of the year they are quite accessible. A slow journey on one of these trails will fill your senses with amazing sights, sounds, smells and views. I'm sure if Robert Frost had visited the Red Hills, his famous poem would have been prairie-oriented and much more interesting. 

The serene valley of the Salt Fork of the Arkansas River valley on Aetna Road
is carpeted with morning fog.
A side trip into the Cave Creek area (by permission of landowner) 
reveals some beautiful gypsum outcrops.
Flower Pot Mountain (yes it's called that on the official Kansas Gazetteer), while not
an actual mountain peak, is the iconic landmark of the Red Hills.
The author takes a break from a peaceful Lake City Road trip.
The Gypsum Hills Scenic Byway west of Medicine Lodge in colder times.
The Gyp Hills Scenic Drive southwest of Medicine Lodge is one
of the most beautiful trips in Kansas. It's a side loop off of the official
Gyp Hills Scenic Byway on U.S. 160 towards Coldwater and begins about 
three miles west of Medicine Lodge.
These roadside observers on Cottage Creek Road in southwest Barber County 
seem unimpressed by human visitors.
Iron infused soil of the Red Hills provides the name-sake color of this region.
The beauty of the Red Hills in Clark County west of Ashland is 
easily observed from U.S. 160.
A backroad trip on Bitter Creek Road, Barber County.
While a county-maintained road, it's best to not try it after heavy rain.
Another view just off of Bitter Creek Road.
A side trip on blacktop to Clark State Fishing Lake results in
lasting memories of a beautiful water feature of the Red Hills.
From the east-side blacktop to the western side of Clark
State Fishing Lake the road changes to a gravel/sand base but worth the effort!
A broad vista of beautiful Red Hills rangeland looking north from Hackberry Road
along the Oklahoma border in Barber County.
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     There are so many back roads less traveled in the Red Hills to make any adventurer happy and delighted to have experienced this amazing place in the Kansas Outback. And in the final stanza of that famous poem, "... I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference!"

Friday, May 22, 2020

Red Hills Roadside Wildflowers

     Want to get out of the house and take an amazing road trip? The Gyp (Red) Hills area of Barber County is a fascinating choice. And now is the time to see an amazing wildflower display. With good spring rains, the grasslands are ablaze with color. And you don't have to explore beyond the road to see it. It's right outside the car window. Here are some examples of what you can see.
This amazingly dense stand of Purple Poppy Mallow
paints this part of the Red Hills a wine color.

Prairie Groundsel formerly known as
Prairie Ragwort

Catclaw Sensitive Briar

Missouri Locoweed


Lemon Paintbrush

Hartweg (Fendler) Evening Primrose (very similar to Missouri Evening Primrose)
Hartweg's is probably more common in the Red Hills. And, as the name
implies, it opens late in the day.

Purple Ground Cherry in the foreground mixed in with
Scarlet Globe Mallow. Spider Antelopehorn Milkweed is in the background.

Scarlet Globe Mallow, one of the few
orange-colored flowers in these hills.

Cobaea Penstamon (Beardtongue) is one of the showiest
flowers of the Red Hills and in Kansas.
Indian Blanket Flower 
A favorite local name is Cowboy Daisy.

Yucca is one of the most evident and iconic plants of the prairie, especially in bloom.
You don't have to be on a pasture road to see this very recognizable plant.





A most spectacular display along Sand Creek Road in Barber County. Included are the tall Rayless Gaillardia in the foreground and flowering Yucca in the background. While
without conspicuous petals, this Gaillardia has the most amazing scent. If you find some,
be sure and smell them! The lower growing plants are Stiff-stem Flax (yellow) and
Norton's Flax (blue).

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     Take a day and go the Red Hills as well as many other wild areas of Kansas. Take it slow and enjoy nature at its best. There are many resources for helping with identification of these plants but a great on-line resource is "Kansas Wildflowers and Grasses" developed and maintained by Mike Haddock. https://www.kswildflower.org/index.php If interested in specific flora of the Red Hills, look for the field guide below. It can be obtained through the Great Plains Nature Center in Wichita or the Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks and Tourism. Another great organization and source of information is the Kansas Native Plant Society.  https://www.kansasnativeplantsociety.org/