Outback Signing Out

     This will be my final post of The Kansas Outback. It's been a great joy to share pictures and stories about the amazing features of our state of which many people are unaware--especially the Red Hills where I've spent most of my life working and enjoying. It's been a little over ten years since I published my first post. I spent about the same period of time as the Red Hills Project Coordinator for The Nature Conservancy. Prior to that I was privileged to spend an incredible career with the state's wildlife agency. This encompasses nearly a half century devoted to wildlife conservation. I don't use the term "privilege" lightly even though I earned the opportunity through interest and education. A little luck didn't hurt as well. I have been rewarded by being able to follow a dream of working with nature as well as an amazing number of highly dedicated colleagues, organizations, agencies and landowners. TNC was gracious to allow me to continue the last few years as a half-time staffer, still able to enjoy working with the people and places I love. I owe much gratitude to all my colleagues, the wonderful landowners who were valued partners in conservation and especially my wife, Lee Ann, and kids and grandkids who have been part of this great adventure. Time moves on and even though I regret changes, I treasure all the memories and adventures of which I've had the pleasure to experience. I'll continue to keep my Facebook page and feature some of the same nature pictures of which frequented The Kansas  Outback. But I've not been posting regular enough on the blog to justify its continuation. It doesn't mean I've lost interest in natural Kansas, just going to do more adventuring and less writing. 

What a special privilege that the Kansas Natural Resources Conference

honored me with a Conservationist of the Year award and this 

beautiful Bob Gress print of a Lesser Prairie-chicken, the species of which

was a major part of my professional interest through much of 

the later part of my career. 

(Photo by Lee Ann Brunson)

I've had many joys in my careers but few so rewarding

as working on programs to conserve the Lesser Prairie-chicken.

(Photo by Jonathan Lautenbach)

     So it's time to move on into a new episode of life to continue to be filled with nature, music, grandkids and friends. Thanks to all who took interest in The Kansas Outback. Signing out... 

Ken Brunson

 

Landscape-8th and last in a series of the Eight Natural Wonders of the Red Hills (Repost)

 Called the Gyp Hills towards the eastern portion and the Red Hills further west, this special landscape exhibits the antithesis to the common perception of a flat Kansas--not that there's anything bad about that though! But this two million acre area of southcentral-southwest Kansas portrays scenes of beauty rarely matched anywhere. Harboring the second largest intact prairie  in Kansas, the mixed-grass, this landscape harbors a corresponding complement of  unique plant and animal species. Natural resource experts have labeled the Red Hills as the second most important biological Kansas ecosystem as well, second only to the vast Tallgrass Prairie in the eastern part of the state and into northern Oklahoma. The Red Hills region boasts clear, spring-fed streams, bountiful white-tailed deer, cougars, Lesser prairie-chickens, spectacular wildflower displays, caves with bats, unique geological features, fossils of the Cretaceous seas of 100 million years ago and amazing scenery--all featured in earlier Natural Wonders of the Red Hills in this blog. Without further justification, let the pictures tell the story which presents the "landscape" as the 8th and perhaps the most definitive Natural Wonder feature of the Red Hills. Gyp Hills or Red Hills--my easy way to characterize the naming conundrum is that if gyp is showing, it's the Gyp Hills; otherwise "Red Hills" suffices well and is typically the name applied to the greater area typically known for the canyons, rolling hills, intact grasslands and special features of this Land of Enchantment.

Bear Creek Ridge greets the fortunate visitor just South
of Sun City, Barber County. In the fall, Sand Lily dresses up the prairie.

The most iconic feature of the Red Hills
is Flower Pot Mountain, here shrouded in morning fog.

Big Swartz Canyon in southeast Comanche County
ranks at the top of unique geologic and biologic features
in the Red Hills. Numerous caves are found here because
of the solubility of the whitish gypsum. This particular series
of gyp outcrops, ridges, caves and unique plants and animals
probably deserves special recognition by its own right as
a special natural wonder of not only the Red Hills but for
Kansas and this part of the Great Plains.

The mouth of Big Swartz Canyon features Swartz Mound (middle pointed
feature). Mr. Swartz supposedly had a trading post here in the late
19th century servicing local pioneers and settlers as well as an alternate
route from the Ft. Zarah to Ft. Supply trail. 

The incised canyons of southwest Barber County exhibit
the characteristic Blaine Formation layer of gypsum.

Livestock is an integral and very important aspect to
the Red Hills forming a critical relationship
between well-managed grazed range and a healthy landscape.

Big Round Cap is a treasured capstone on the eastern edge
of the Red (Gyp) Hills. Being closer to Medicine Lodge, one
must be careful to use the Gyp Hills moniker which is
the more common name used in these parts.

Cheyenne sandstone sports colorful lichens with a foreground
of Prairie Gaillardia in a beautiful area in  southeast Kiowa County.

After several years of drought, the Red Hills explode in
green beauty in this part of western Clark County. While
 called Gyp Hills further east, here they are
specifically called "Red Hills."

A butte on the eastern edge of the Red (Gyp) Hills reflects
through fog in one of the many ponds characteristic of this landscape.

A little bit of gyp, a splash of smooth sumac, with a backdrop of
rolling hills and the small town of Medicine Lodge adorn this image.

Morning fog shrouds the Salt Fork of the Arkansas River valley
in southwest Barber County.

The fall colors of sumac with still-green leaves against
the contrasting gypsum layer accent any images.

A landowner and resource specialist admire the
positive effects of the Anderson Creek Wildfire occurring
in March of 2016 and review benefits from prior cedar
cutting efforts performed by the rancher.

The escarpment from the eastern plateau of the
 Red (Gyp) Hills is one of the
most picturesque features of this Land of Enchantment.


The eight natural wonders of the Red Hills:
St. Jacob's Well, Caves, Wildflowers, Grasslands, Wildlife, Fossils, Streams, and the Landscape.

Fossils--6th in a series of the 8 Natural Wonders of the Red Hills (reposted)

  "The work of a lifetime lies within the hills surrounding the valley...Fortunate will he be who in this region devotes himself to the task of learning nature's secrets." C. N. Gould.  Thus was the pronouncement of  Gould in an article published in the Transactions of the Kansas Academy of Science in 1898 about the area of the Red Hills in southeast Kiowa County. Yes, well over a hundred years ago, paleontologists were well aware of and deeply entrenched in prospecting for fossils in the Red Hills. While the Niobrara Chalk of western Kansas is much better known for its rich and more famous fossils brought to the world stage by members of the Sternberg family, the older geologic layers in portions of the Red Hills yield great paleontological bounty. 

     A hundred million years ago, this area of the central Great Plains was covered by the Western Interior Sea. Areas which show the dark Kiowa shale at the lower portion of these Cretaceous age deposits were part of the relatively shallow part of this ocean. Thus, the layers of rocks and shale are rich in invertebrate fossils indicative of shallower waters. This testimony is presented by many clam, snail and oyster species found encased or loose in various formations. However, occasionally some vertebrates such as turtles, alligators, sharks and plesiosaurs show up. Plant and insect impressions have also been noted for the region. (During intermediate times when dry land existed between oceans.) While this rich natural history is ancient, it is significant enough to garner a spot among the Red Hills top eight natural wonders. Some of the amazing fascinations of this land of enchantment are revealed in subtle ways, hidden in the rocks and sediments from eons of time gone by to be discovered by current day naturalists.

A vertebrae once sported by a plesiousaur in the Western Interior Sea
was preserved only to be found by a very lucky amateur geologist
around a hundred million years after the animal suffered its demise.

Plesiosaurs similar to this depiction roamed the Western Interior Sea
throughout the Cretaceous Period of the Mesozoic. They are among
a number of reptilian sea monsters of the day.

Dr. Reese Barrick, Director of the Sternberg Museum, Hays, Kansas
along with Mike Everhart, Adjunct Paleontologist and Curator
for the Sternberg Museum, poke around the Kiowa Shale of the Red Hills.

Ammonites are extinct mollusks which were very prominent in the
Mesozoic seas. See the picture below but think modern day Nautilus.

Similar to our modern day Nautilus, ammonites
were varied and very numerous in ancient times.

Typically, only impressions of the ammonite shells
are found either embedded in rock or sometimes unassociated.

Occasionally, fish fossils such as the vertebrae in the upper part of
this conglomerate are found.

Fossil wood such as this ancient tree stump are
seen in some spots. Other plant parts, such as leaves
have been noted in some of these older Cretaceous layers.
This specimen perhaps was from an older time, the Permian.

    An occasional shark's tooth (see inset) can be found
either loosely but
  also often embedded in a conglomerate of
rock with fossil invertebrates.

Oysters were common in the ancient sea of the Red Hills.
This one is known as the "Devils Toe."

Clams, also a bivalve similar to oysters, are found
in the fossilized muds from the ancient sea.

Locals call this "Shell Rock" for obvious reasons. Some layers in Kiowa Shale
are made up of solid masses of shells of oysters, clams and snails. This conveys
clear evidence of the tremendous populations of these animals in the shallows
of these old waters.

For some more amazing pictures, accounts and information about Cretaceous fossils in Kansas, see Mike Everhart's incredible website:  oceansofkansas.com

Wildlife--5th in the series of the 8 Natural Wonders of the Red Hills (reposted)

      There are so many iconic wildlife species from which to choose to represent this category. But, I would be completely remiss if wildlife of the Red Hills was not recognized as something very special and deserving of being on this list. While recognizing so many possibilities, this is a selection of some of the most beautiful, interesting, popular, creepy and fascinating animals that call the Red Hills home. There are very few, if any, places in the state where all of these particular animals can be found. A trip through the "hills" at the right time of year could yield any number of these incredible creatures. 

Painted Buntings are a fairly common summer 
resident in the Red Hills.

Big-eared Bats are fairly common in various 
caves and old buildings in the Red Hills.

Bison are found at several ranches in the Red Hills. 

One of the largest herds is on the Z-bar Ranch in 

Southwest Barber County.

Watch out for Prairie Rattlesnakes. 
They add to the wildness of the Red Hills.

Watch for Eastern Collared Lizards. 
They can bite pretty hard!

The list would not be complete without the 
Greater Roadrunner, very commonly seen here.

                          

There are some small herds of Pronghorn
 in the Red Hills region.

The Texas Brown Tarantula is common 
and often seen during migrations in the 
spring and fall. Otherwise, look under rocks.

And of course, White-tailed Deer--lots of em.

A very intersting and creepy resident is 
the Giant Desert Centipede.

A Coachwhip lurks among paperflower. 

And last in this presentation has to be the Nine-banded Armadillo--a menace to yards but fun to watch. It is a very common resident of the Red Hills.

Grasslands--Fourth in a series of the 8 Natural Wonders of the Red Hills (Reposted)

 

     Grasslands are awarded the distinction as one of the 8 Natural Wonders of the Red Hills.  As the fourth selection (the first three are St. Jacob's Well, Caves, and Wildflowers), this expanse of mixed-grass prairie is the second largest intact grassland in Kansas.   Composed of  short, mid and tall grasses, the primary species include Indiangrass, side-oats grama, little bluestem, sand and big bluestem, blue grama, rough dropseed , sandlove, buffalo and many, many more.  This grassland is sprinkled with well over 500 different wildflower plants adding an amazing floral display throughout the growing season.  I shall honor this category with poetry which hopefully expresses the feelings of all those who make a living in, travel through, or otherwise appreciate the Kansas grasslands.

***

Grassland Man

I've been on rocky mountains high,

with sculpted peaks that pierce the sky,

slivered with their crystal streams,

filled with anglers' shimmering dreams;

I've walked in desert solitude,

scorned by cactus wren or two,

and heard its sedent, silent wind,

whispering to large saguaro men;

I've spent some time in eastern woods,

watched busy squirrels stash their goods,

and sniffed the essence spring rains awakens,

of leafy perfume to a naturalist beckons;

And of these treasures I chance to hold,

these wonderful pleasures to the soul,

none quite satisfy my quest,

like the Kansas grasslands I like best;

To watch golden rays of slow sunset,

paint serenity on a prairie grouse lek,

hearing chuckled calls as night encroaches,

this scene no other delight approaches;

A thousand diamonds fill the nights,

sprinkling precious jewels of sapphire starlight,

to dance in eyes of nocturnal beasts,

who stalk for voles to fill their feasts;

Sunrise stirs an anxious breeze,

to caress the grass in endless tease,

bluestem applauds in rhythmic waves,

to greet each fresh spectral display;

And hidden midst these blades of green,

a pinkish face of an anemone,

specially picked in such quaint way,

set in its niche of this grand bouquet;

Now rustled by some scampering there,

known by whistle this bobwhite lair,

quickly silencing all quail talk,

the threatening form of red-tailed hawk;

Whose curious glance acknowledges me,

quite easily in this grassland sea,

its spirit sent on shrieking voice,

to meld with mine and give rejoice;

You may wish to play in mountain halls,

or sing to desert canyon walls,

you may like the feel of ocean spray,

or walk the forestland some day;

But plead ye not to this deaf ear,

those sanctuaries you hold dear,

I'm rooted to my prairie home,

the land I love, the land I roam.

***

Wildflowers--third in the series of 8 Natural Wonders of the Red Hills (Reposted)

      The floral display in the Red Hills in most years is good enough to deserve a spot on the top 8 list of Natural Wonders of the Red Hills. This year has been spectacular. From the earliest blooms of Easter Daisy in March to the last puffs of purple from gayfeathers in the fall, the chronological march of flowers paint the mixed-grass prairie with remarkable beauty. A wide variety of habitats from gypsum and sandy soils to loamy range sites set the table for a diverse floral component. It all translates to an amazing amount of eye-candy for anyone traveling the roads of the Red Hills during the growing season.

     Craig Freeman, Senior Curator for the R. L. McGregor Herbarium at the University of Kansas states there are about 630 plant species in the Red Hills. It would be impossible to present pictures of  all of just my own collection of images. I have chosen a selection here to hopefully delight the viewer and to perhaps demonstrate the legitimacy of this component of this ecosystem as one of the 8 Natural Wonders in this land of enchantment. This posie parade starts with the iconic, showy fall wildflower of the Red Hills, Ten-petal Mentzelia or "Candleflower."

Ten-petal Mentzelea, aka Chalk Lilly, is one of three species
in this genus in the Red Hills. These plants' flowers 
open late in the day and are also fall bloomers.

                      

       Indian Blanket Flower (AKA Cowboy Daisy--one of the most recognizable and 
common long-season bloomers.  Also called Rosering Gaillardia.)

Blue Funnel-lily

Blue Wild Indigo

Buckeye and variegated butterflies on Black Sampson (AKA Snakeroot)

Butterfly Milkweed

Cardinal Flower--along streams

Cobea Beardtongue

Prairie Coneflower

Stout Scorpion-weed attracting a Digger Bee

Dotted Gayfeather

Butterflies on Echinacea (Black Sampson or Snakeroot)

 Rayless Gaillardia (tall ones) in with Norton Flax (blue), Stiff Stem Flax (yellow) 
and Narrowleaf Yucca (Soapweed along the fence)

Purple Locoweed, AKA Lambert Crazyweed, with Plains Hymenoxis (yellow)

Scarlet Globe Mallow

Purple Poppy Mallow (AKA Prairie Winecup or Cowboy Rose)

A reddish version of the usually yellow flower of Prickly Pear cactus

Bush Morning-glory

Plains Gayfeather

Lemon Bee Balm

White Beardtongue (Penstemon)

Pincushion Cactus

Prairie Blanketflower (Gaillardia)

Purple Poppy Mallow (Prairie Winecup or Cowboy Rose)

Cat-claw Sensitive Brier

Golden Prairie Clover (Silk-top Dalea)

Prairie Spiderwort (Cow Slobbers)

Smooth Twist Flower (foreground), Spotted Bee Balm(background)

Want to see more?  Here's a handy guide to Red Hills wildflowers.  Contact me if you'd like one. Also, one of the best sources on-line is Michael Haddock's website called Kansas Wildflowers and Grasses.  Google it for plants of the Red Hills and the rest of Kansas.  Also, just out this year is a fantastic book called "Kansas Wildflowers and Weeds" by Michael Haddock, Craig Freeman and Janet Bare.  It is available through the University Press of Kansas.